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anything that may occur during the nature of any repair.
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Wow is pretty
much what I think, kick ass exhaust here. Enclosed will give you a
glimpse of the install it was really pretty easy with minimal tools
required. Here’s what I used, YMMV:
3/8”
Ratchet
12MM Box Wrench
4, 5 and 6 MM Hex Key or
Socket [I prefer sockets]
For the Arrow Exhaust install
you'll also need a 13 MM socket
Rubber Mallet
Please Click On Any Picture Below To Enlarge That Picture.
Sweet box huh, lol….:
Unpacked………Getting bored yet?:
Pic of the can:
Ok, now let’s
get started. First I weighed it all, mounting bolts, washers,
everything and it only weighs 5 lbs 5.8 ounces with the DB killer
in. Pretty light!:
Now I’ll take
the DB Killer out. You can just use needle nose pliers if you don’t
have snap ring pliers:
Then I put the
end of a broom stick in the other end of the can and pushed the DB
Killer out, thanks Cloak!:
Now that the DB
Killer is out I weighed it, not a significant difference in weight
of the overall total shown above:
Now let’s get
the stock can off. First remove the three push clips located at the
front and underside of the lower fairing. The arrow shows one and
the circles show the approximate location of the other two:
Now remove
these three 4MM hex head bolts:
Now the tricky
part! Pull the bottom of the lower fairing out and then work it
loose from this hook. Don’t get crazy with it, take your time
‘cause I doubt you want to break anything:
Ok, now move on
to the other side and remove it. You might be able to get away with
only removing the exhaust side, but I just remove both as they are
easy enough to remove:
Ok, I looked
under and even with the amount of tools I have I found that it was
going to be a real PITA to get at the two bolts holding the stock
exhaust on so I remove the rear-set and tied it up. If you remove
this be careful with it as the rear brake line and such are
attached. Remove these hex head bolts, the three listed as number
one are 6MM and the one listed number 2 is 5MM:
Now remove the
stock exhaust clamp, 12MM:
Now behind the
rear set you can see the two bolts for the exhaust mount. These are
also 12MM, but the one to the farthest left in the pic runs all the
way over and has a nut that also needs to be held. See next pic:
Over here,
sorry for the dark pic but you should be able to locate it, this nut
is also 12MM. I used a box wrench to fish through and hold the nut
while loosening the bolt:
Ok, it should
be ready to come off. You can try and pull it off if you feel
strong, but I just took a rubber mallet and lightly tapped the
exhaust like so. I staggered the taps on each side of the clamp.
Space is tight between the exhaust and wheel, but it will fit for
removal:
Now it’s time
to put the new can on [Arrow Exhaust]. First I put the mounting
clamp where the stock mounts are. Then I took to rubber mallet and
lightly tapped the end of the can near the wheel to get it on. Then
I put the clamp and barely tightened it, you want to have enough
play to be able to twist the can for adjustment:
Here you can
see the mounting bracket that came with the Arrow Exhaust. Now fit
the mounting ring over the exhaust and thread the nut just a few
turns:
Finally get the
can twisted and tweaked the way you would like it to be. For me it
was important to have it tucked up nice and tight. I accomplished
that after a few cuss words.:
Now put the
rear-set back on, verify the can is exactly where you want it and
then tighten the clamp and finally the mounting ring:
Now take off
the protective paper on the Arrow logo, start it up and just
listen………………………………………………..Now check for any leaks and reassemble the
lower fairings:
It sounds
FREAKIN’ AWESOME!!!!!!:
………And looks
GREAT!!!!:
Oh, what the weight on the stock exhaust? Check it out:
Here's a video of how the exhaust
sounds, turn up the volume:
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