With the addition of my Arrow Exhaust Slip On I also added a DynoJet PCIII USB which will give me more tuning options.  This isn't necessarily required, but if you do not add one or plug the pair vale there is a possibility of getting some backfiring on deceleration.

Enjoy, and remember ALWAYS work safe and I assume NO RESPONSIBILITY for your actions, mechanical abilities or anything that may occur during the nature of the repairs.

Disclaimer: Not for distribution, redistribution, sale, re-sale or otherwise without my written consent.  This information is presented with no liability or guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.  Copyright © Magnum / Magnum1.com 2003-2008.

Then remove the two 10MM bolts that hold the tank down:

After removing those bolts I used a box to prop up the tank so I could get my hands under there to disconnect the rest of the connections:

A view of the fuel pump from under the backside of the tank:

Now locate the fuel pump lead and disconnect it.  It’s on the left side of the bike:

Like so and then route the end of the connector under the wire harness:

Now on the right side of the bike is the fuel hose quick connect.  Take you flat head screwdriver and slide the red piece out until it has stops:

Like so:

Now pull the fuel line connection off the nipple.  You may need to give it a good tug, but make sure your free hand is stabilizing the tank:

Now remove the fuel overflow line, I just used needle nose pliers to pinch the end of the clamp and slid the line off:

Here’s what the clamp looks like, it is rather small:

Now you’re ready to pull the tank.  I grabbed the front and rear of the tank and simply pulled up to remove and then move it out of the way:

As you can see I set it on some pieces of scrap wood.  I didn’t want to set it on the fuel pump for fear of damage:

Ok, here what we look like with the tank removed:

Now we need to get the PCIII ready for install.  First, route the PCIII wires under the frame, then under the tank mount and hook up the negative lead from the PCIII to the negative side if the battery:

Now it’s time to remove the airbox.  Remove these 4 philips head screws on the cover:

And pop up the cover:

Lift up the cover and swing it out of the way, then disconnect the Air Temperature Sensor [see arrow]:

Now remove the four 5MM hex bolts:

Now go under the airbox and use needle nose pliers or the like to pinch the clamp together and slide the breather hose up [#1], and make note of the air filter drain hose [#2].  Now remove the airbox:

Now unplug the 2 plug from the injectors:

And hook the connectors from the PCIII in-line with the stock connectors, see blue arrows.  Connect the orange colored leads from the PCIII harness to the LEFT hand cylinder:

Now locate the Throttle Position Sensor on the left hand side of the bike.  It’s buried under there and I had best luck removing the fairing bolt that mounts to the frame and disconnecting from the, then take the quick clamp and connect it to the yellow wire with white stripes, then plug in the gray wire from the PCIII to the quick connect and finally plug the stock connector back into the Throttle Position Sensor: 

Here’s what it looks like, now reinstall the airbox in reverse.  DON’T forget to route the air filter drain tube down through and DON’T forget to hook up the breather hose.

Here it is all back together, and ready for the fuel tank to go back on.  For the fuel tank reassemble in reverse:

And here is the end result, PCIII and new filter installed.  The blue lines highlight how the PCIII harness routes through and as you can see I mounted it towards the tail and secured it with the factory bungee cord. 

TOP

If you feel this article has helped you in any way or if you would like this document in a .PDF with descriptions and large color photos, please make a PayPal donation.  All donations will help defer the cost of this site.  If you have any questions about the article or the information contained within this article please contact me via the Feedback Page.