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*** These are the notes of my install,
they are not meant to be a substitute for the instructions that came
with the Escort Laser Shifter ZR3. If you are not familiar with your
cars electrical setup, you do not know how to remove parts, trim and
the like DO NOT attempt this install, instead have a professional
install it for you. ***
My Order of
Installation:
-
Rear Sensor
-
Front Sensors
-
Power Unit /
Brain
-
Display Unit
Tools:
Enjoy, and remember ALWAYS work safe and I assume NO
RESPONSIBILITY for your actions, mechanical abilities or
anything that may occur during the nature of the repairs.
Disclaimer: Not for
distribution, redistribution, sale, re-sale or otherwise without my
written consent. This information is presented with no liability or
guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.
Copyright © Magnum / Magnum1.com 2003-2008. |
Here's what I am installing: |
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I started out with
the rear laser shifter sensor. It sure would have been great if the
phone connectors fit the power unit
J.
STOP: Do not cut until you know you have “Mini” RJ-11
connector’s, make sure you have at least 5! My local Radio Shack,
Micro-Center, Ace or Home Depot did not have these, so I ended up at a
custom cable shop called House of Cables. Connectors shown = WRONG.
Too lazy to snap a new pic……
|
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OK now that you know
you have the proper connectors, cut of the connector and start here.
Take a small flat head screwdriver and pop out the license plates
light[s] out. I removed both, just because. |
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Now I mounted the
rear laser diffuser on the plate, tucked the cable and popped the
license plate light back in.
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As you can see
it looks real clean, and you really can’t notice the cable at all.
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Fish the cable
through your preferred route and bring it out at the lower passenger
side trunk. Remove the inner trunk lid lining by pulling on a corner,
this is help in place by push connectors, you do not need to remove
the whole trunk lid liner.
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Pull the black
rubber piece from the trunk lid. Now you have your choice of cutting
the connector for the rear laser diffuser or not cutting it, your
choice. If you want to cut it you can fish it through with the
factory wiring. If you fish it be careful of the existing factory
wiring.
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Remove this cover,
I think it was a 10mm socket, and then pull the black rubber piece
from the trunk gutter, just as you did above, and fish your cable
through coming through above the battery:
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The rear laser
diffuser cable should come through here:
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I then placed the
rear laser diffuser cable behind the black covering, then behind the
side trunk lining.
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Now go to the
rear seat and remove it. You remove the seat by grabbing in the
center of each seat and giving it a nice firm pull up.
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Now that the seat
is out of the way feed the rear laser diffuser cable through here,
this is located in the front-middle of the trunk area:
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With the rear seat
removed, you should be able to easily pull the rear laser diffuser
cable through to the back seat:
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I ran the cable
along the back of the rear seat, you will be able to see some existing
clips that you can use to secure the cable.
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Take a 10mm socket
and remove the trim bolt located to left of the seatbelt in the rear
seat.
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To remove the
actual trim piece, I have the best luck using a long flat head
screwdriver and popping it loose.
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If any of the clips
do not come loose simply remove them with your tool of choice, I use
needle nose pliers.
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Tuck the cable
under the carpet and run it up to the B-Pillar.
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Continue the run by
tucking under the B-Pillar, no need for removal as you can tuck in
under pretty easy. |
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Pop the front lower
trim piece using the same method as the rear, there are no bolts
securing this piece, it just pops loose via the screwdriver method. I
was able to pop this piece loose using my figures and continue my run.
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I pulled the
interior door trim, which assisted in tucking the cable along the
glove box and dash area.
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I tucked the cable
around the dash, wound it up and stopped, I will run the cable further
when I do the front sensors.
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Now onto the front
sensors, I chose to remove the bumper trim and fog lights. I did the
trim by using a plastic trim puller tool. Next remove the fog
lights, and if you don’t know how to remove the fog
lights you probably shouldn’t be doing this install.
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Remove these 2
fasteners, 8mm I'm remembering....
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To remove the
bumper you must remove 2 bolts located under the front of the bumper
cover.
They are Torx T-50 and long, once these bolts are removed you
can slide the bumper forward and lay it on your sheet. The bumper
weighs 20-30 lbs, not that heavy, but if you think you need a helper
get one.
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Here it is, Ouch
what did I do! |
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OK, so I don’t have
any pics of the brackets I had to fabricate. WHY, because the
standard brackets I bought did not fit, frustration set in and I was
back to the hardware store where I bought a couple pieces of metal to
fabricate what I needed. On the inside of the bumper is some metal, I
drilled through it and secured the brackets and front sensors, this
worked great and is very secure. Bumper is back on and looks good.
|
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Here you can see
how I ran the cables through the existing clips. Keep the cables away
from moving parts and hot surfaces.
|
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Close up of front
sensors, you can see the brackets behind the grill. I ran the wiring
along the front of the vehicle. You will see many clips along the
front when the bumper is removed that are ideal for securing the
cables. Sorry for the lack of pics here, but I only have 2 hands and
took this one on by myself |
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Now into the engine
bay, I ran the cables up near the headlights securing them via
zip-ties. Make sure you keep all these cables away from heat and
moving objects. |
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“X” marks the spot
to drill out and run the cable through. Don’t forget your rubber
grommets.
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Grommet in and
ready to go, I drilled and then used my dremel to smooth out the
edges.
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Top view, cables
are wrapped in the slinky stuff and secured properly.
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Remove this, again
if you don’t know how you shouldn’t be doing this project.
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I chose to go
through the firewall via the hood release. Remove this plastic
shield, it’s tough mainly because of space, have faith.
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Interior foot-well
shot, you can see my coat hanger coming straight at you.
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For the next step,
I had great luck with this.
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After figuring out
where the coat hanger wanted to come through at, I sliced a small hole
if the rubber and pushed the coat hanger through the rest on the way.
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Here’s the coat
hanger ready to pull the front laser sensor cables into the interior
of the car. Tape the cables up real good, I staggered them, and pull
them into the interior of the car.
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There both of them
are through. I taped the entry slice real good and moved to the next
step.
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Now secure this
plastic shield, it goes on easier then it came off!
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Here you can see
the cables coming into the interior.
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I run the cables
through the footwell and up the trim just like I did for the rear
cable.
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Here’s where you
want to go wash your hands, you don’t want to ruin your interior! Run
the cables for both the rear and front sensors up here and tuck under
the headliner. FYI, I ran the rear sensor cable up the passenger
A-Pillar and the front sensor cable up the drivers side A-Pillar.
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Drop the overhead
light and panel to finish out the install. I’m almost there
J.
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Here’s where I
chose to mount the brain. Tight fit, but I got it.
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Brain is in place
and all the sensors are hooked up.
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There’s where it
will stay for now, on top of the mirror. I hope it powers up
J.
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And it's still there in
'09.....good location!
Note: Pic not taken in '09.
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Oh yeah, I’m done. The final location
of the display unit sits atop the mirror, so far it seems like a good
location and I am happy with it.
TOP
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Disclaimer: Not for
distribution, redistribution, sale, re-sale or otherwise without my
written consent. This information is presented with no liability or
guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.
Copyright © Magnum / Magnum1.com 2003-2008. |
|