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I started noticing
a mysterious coolant leak, and upon some discussions and looking I
went with the water pump. Shit, that’s about the only thing cooling
system related that hasn’t been replaced with the last 3 years. So by
doing all the parts in the article, I should hope I’ll be good until
the radiator or expansion tank goes again, LOL…!
This wasn’t as bad
as I originally thought, I’m no professional mechanic and you should
be able to tell by what I call stuff. Everybody has different tools
in the shed,
but I used a variation of the tools listed below.
Parts:
Tools:
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Sockets, ranging
from 5mm to 17mm
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3/8 and 1/2 inch
socket drive
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10mm wrench
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Torque wrench
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Hex Key [I forget
the exact size]
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32mm thin fan
clutch wrench
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A home made
pulley holder tool to get the fan off
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Rubber Mallet
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Some silicone
lubricant for the o-rings
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Floor Jack
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Jack Stands
Torque values?
Nothing was real tight, but I did torque what I called important.
Read the TIS for these values.
Enjoy, and remember
ALWAYS work safe and I assume
NO RESPONSIBILITY for your actions,
mechanical abilities or anything that may occur during the nature of
the repairs.
While reviewing
this, make mental notes of the work you are actually doing. I
basically followed the TIS for the parts I was replacing. It went
smooth!
I've posted
pictures of all the parts replaced at the bottom of this page.
Disclaimer: Not for
distribution, redistribution, sale, re-sale or otherwise without my
written consent. This information is presented with no liability or
guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.
Copyright © Magnum / Magnum1.com 2003-2008. |
First, I have to
show you the tool I made to hold the fan pulley…….lol…….she’s a
keeper…..it turned out great! You can buy one, be it universal or BMW
specific, but what the hell this cost $4 and gave me a little time to
screw around with the drill and dremel one evening. |
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Here’s some of the
stuff I’m replacing. I gotta’ love the shine of new parts, here is
the water pump, gasket and o-rings:
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Here’s the
thermostat: |
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Lets get started
removing the MAF and air box. Remove the sensor by pinching the side
clips as depicted below:
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Then pop out the
clips:
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Remove the bolt that
attaches the MAF Hose from shifting around: |
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Now loosen this hose
clamp and lightly pull it off and set it on top of the engine: |
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Now onto the air
box, loosen this hose clamp and remove slide off hose: |
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Remove the 1 bolt
that holds the air box down:
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Loosen this hose
clamp, and finally slide out air box: |
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Air box removed:
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Now I did a little
prep work on the expansion tank, fan cowl and fan prior to putting the
car on jack stands. First I loosened the fan, I did not totally
remove the fan yet, I just loosened it so it was easier to remove once
the car was in the air. This is where your need the home made pulley
holder and 32mm thin wrench:
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Then I removed the
attachment thing for the expansion tank. Remove the cap and then
pinch where indicated by arrows with your fingers and pop it off:
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Now there are 2
push connectors holding the fan cowl in place. Remove both of them, 1
on each side of fan cowl:
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Let’s get the car
up, here is where I place the jack to get the whole front end up at
once:
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Now put the stands
under, *make sure they are totally secure*, lower the jack and give
the front end a nice side to side push just to double check stability:
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Now remove the
lower engine cover, there are 8 [I’m remembering] phillips head clips
that hold it on. 1 or 2 turns each and they are loose, they do not
come totally out:
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Here it is removed,
some nasty dirty shit here, but I’m glad it’s here rather than my
garage:
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Before you get back
under the car remove the expansion tank cap, bleeder screw and
o-ring. MAKE SURE you get the o-ring out: |
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Let’s drain the
radiator. Here is what BMW called the drain plug, HAVE your bucket
ready and simple turn it towards the X and then pull like a mother
f’er. I actually put a fat screwdriver in there to get some leverage
and it popped loose:
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It’ll take a while
to drain, btw I drained out just a little over a gallon and a half:
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Now let’s take out
the expansion tank and other parts, like so.
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Unplug the sensor
at the bottom on the expansion tank.
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Then remove the
AUC sensor [the black box attached to the fan cowl] below the
expansion tank.
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Then loosen the
lower expansion tank hose clamp and pull off the hose, HAVE your
bucket near by.
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Then lift the
tank up slightly, pull it out slightly and loosen the vent hose
clamp and then pull the hose off. You can see the hose in the pic,
it runs along the top of the radiator.
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Now climb under
the car and make sure the clips on the bottom of the fan cowl are
unclipped and lift the fan cowl straight up out of the car. Be
careful around the fan blades.
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Finally, because
we have already loosened the fan you just need to fully remove the
fan with a 32mm thin wrench, see arrow, and pull it straight up and
out:
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I’ve read that you
should be careful with the fan and clutch, and don’t lay it flat
down. I took extreme caution with the fan and actually hung it
upright from the wall:
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BMW recommends you
mark the direction of travel for the belt if you are reinstalling the
belts, well I am as mine only have about 30K miles on them. I just
took a piece of chalk to mark it: |
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Now I moved onto
removing the belts. The main serpentine belt is easily accessed
through the hood. Loosen the bolt [#1 in the pic] on top of the
welded bolt, then loosen the bolt [#2 in the pic] located on the
slider arm. Once this is loosened, you will immediately be able to
see the tension decrease, you may even hear a crack when you remove
the tension:
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Slide off the belt:
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Let’s go to the AC
belt, crawl under car and do the same steps as above. Mark direction
of travel. This pic is of me tightening the belt, but loosening it
works the same as the main belt. Loosen #1 in the pic and then loosen
the slider arm bolt #2 in this pic and slide off belt:
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Now remove the
vibration damper. This is easy, remove the 8 bolts [you can’t see
them all in this pic but they are there, and it will slide off with
easy. Have a firm hold on it as it does weigh a little, not much, but
a little. If you have a 1999, 2000 or 2001 this MUST be removed to
get the water pump out: |
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Here it is removed:
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Now let’s take off
the pulley mounted to the water pump. Simple, remove the 4 bolts and
then I had to put a small metal stick behind it and rock side to side,
and it finally popped right off:
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I’m replacing most
of my hoses, so now let’s do those. The hoses are fairly cut and dry,
most of them have metal clips you slide out and then pull the hose.
The most difficult part is pulling the hose, because the o-rings
inside provide a nice tight seal:
Pictured here is
the hose located at the top of the radiator leading to the water pump,
with a split to the alternator. ’99 and up have a water cooled
alternator. BMW recommends you cover the alternator from any liquid,
so I did this. I didn’t get any coolant out of the hose when I pulled
it, but I also don’t want to mess up my alternator, better safe than
sorry. Pop the clip up and pull the hose, it’s that simple:
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Now remove the
radiator side and water pump side of the hose. You can see here how
you pry the clip up to remove. Have your bucket ready: |
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There first hose is
out, the rest are the same but some are harder to get at than others:
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Next, the clip at
the radiator side was a little tight for space so I used a piece of
wire I have for removing my built in wall speaker grates in my house,
worked like a champ. Have your bucket ready, then remove the other
end of the hose hooked to the thermostat:
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This hose is a
little tight to get at [#1], and if you’re not changing the hose you
can just disconnect it at the water pump [#2]. This hose come off the
water pump and “T’s” off with one hose going to the expansion tank and
the other routes down near the hose we disconnected to drain the
radiator:
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Now that that hose
is off we need to disconnect the hose holder. I twisted the hose
straight up and down, and then took needle nose pliers to pinch it and
pull it out:
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Now remove the plug
on the thermostat. Simply push in on the clip and pull up:
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Then remove this, a
crescent wrench works good. I pulled the sensor first, set it aside
and then removed this: |
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Now with all that
shit out of the way, we can finally remove the Thermostat and Water
pump. A little hint here, I had to remove the thermostat first
because there is a metal tube that runs right in front of the water
pump and restricts bulky things from passing through. The thermostat
is held in place by 4 bolts, I removed those and had to pry a little
to break the tight seal. Disregard my screw driver, instead look
right and you’ll see 3 of the 4 thermostat bolts:
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Here is the metal
pipe that runs in front of the water pump:
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With the thermostat
removed we’re ready to remove the water pump. First look around and
locate all the bolts. Once I removed the bolts, I put them in the
corresponding holes on the new water pump that was located on my work
bench. Why? Because there are 2 bolts that are long and you want to
make sure you put everything back together right. BE CAREFUL with the
2 tubes you see here, you DO NOT want them to come out of their spot
in the back of the engine….. It took a little force to break the
seal, but once that was done it came right off:
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I guess in all my
happiness of finally getting there, I forgot to get a good pic of the
old water pump…LOL…but at least you’ll have the surprise if you have
to replace your water pump J…..! Now getting the water pump out with
that metal tube there is a maze, but can be done. After I got the
water pump out, I started cleaning off the old gasket residue. Don’t
use a sharp object, I used a plastic putty knife, my finger nails and
some shop towels to get the old gasket off. Take your time here, you
want a nice clean surface when installing the new gasket and pump: |
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All cleaned up with
the new gasket installed. DO NOT put the thermostat on the new water
pump until the water pump is already installed. The gasket didn’t
stay like that for me as I put the water pump in. So just get the
water pump there and then fit the gasket in, make sure you take your
time and position the gasket good because if it doesn’t seal tight
you’ll be going back in, then put the Thermostat on: |
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I guess in all my
happiness of finally getting the new water pump in, I forgot to get a
good pic of the new water pump installed…LOL…but at least you’ll have
the time to reflect once you get your water pump in
J…..!
Now it’s basically
reassemble time. I put the vibration damper on first:
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Then the pulley:
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Then the hoses,
they go on the same way they came off. Make sure you seat them
correctly on the install, they have o-rings in them for seals:
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Next Hose:
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Next Hose:
And one more hose that goes behind
the water pump and to the expansion tank, sorry no pic. |
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Now put the belts back on. Here’s the belt routing for
main belt per TIS, remember the arrow if you are reusing the belts:
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Now tighten them
down, put the 17mm socket on the bolt labeled 1 and turn to get
tension, once the slider [labeled 2] is maxed out on tension tighten
2, then go back and fully tighten the bolt on top of 1: |
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Now the AC belt, reinstall in the same
direction as earlier marked, then turn 1 to take up tension and then
once 2 has maxed out the tension tighten it, then go back to the bolt
on top of 1 and fully tighten it: |
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Then the fan, remember reverse threads so that means
righty loosy, lefty tighty:
- Now slide the fan cowl in, make
sure the bottom is seated respective slots and then put the push pin
clips in.
- Then plug the AUC Sensor in on the
fan cowl.
- Then put the expansion tank in,
secure the top bleeder hose and then the bottom expansion tank hose.
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Now let’s put the
MAF and air box in, I’m getting closer to completion. Make sure you
still have your o-ring for the MAF sealing: |
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Now put the air box
in and get it situated, make sure you seal get these hose connection
lined up right:
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Now tighten down
the 1 bolt that holds the air box in:
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Now position this
hose and tighten the clamp:
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Next, one of the secondary air pump
hoses gets attached to the air box: |
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Now secure the MAF
hose down:
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Now connect it to
the intake:
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Then plug in the
MAF sensor:
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OK, put the lower
engine cover on, take the car off the stands and get ready to fill and
bleed the system? I am……Hope it all works
J.
I use BMW coolant, many will say this and many will say that about
what coolant to use…..I took out just about a gallon and a half so
I’ll take one of my half full jugs and mix it. Don’t mind my chicken
scratch, it’s so I know what I have in the cabinets:
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Filling and
Bleeding the system, hmmmm, I can’t really take pics of it but I’ll
try to explain in good detail how I did it and ended up with great
results:
First remove the
expansion tank cap, bleeder valve and o-ring:
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Now the filling and
bleeding process, it helps to a 2 people but not necessary:
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Mix the proper
mixture of coolant and water, I used 50/50.
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Fill the
expansion tank SLOWLY until the dipstick tells you it’s full.
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Put the key in
the car, turn it to position 2 and turn the heater temp up to 90
degrees and put the fan speed to nothing.
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Now start the
car.
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Go back to the
front and SLOWLY refill coolant as needed until the dipstick says
full, refill as necessary.
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Once the cars
temp has hit the first white notch on the gauge, have your helper
rev the RPM’s to 1000.
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You’ll start to
see bubbles coming out of the expansion tanks bleeder valve.
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Wipe as necessary
or let your pan catch it, your choice.
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Once the bubbles
stop, and it appears to be all coolant let it keep going……….for
about one minute.
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Then close off
the bleeder screw, put the expansion tank cap on and you’re
DONE……..!!!!!
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The following
morning check the coolant level and fill to appropriate level.
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No
Picture
Of
The
Bleeding
Process...!! |
Miscellaneous pics of new parts
below……
Water Pump:
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The arrows represents where the O-Rings
go. The O-Rings slide into a groove inside the circles. |
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Water Pump gasket
and O-Rings:
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Thermostat:
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Hoses.
This one goes from
bottom of expansion tank to the water pump:
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This one goes from
the top of the radiator to the top of the water pump and “T’s” off to
the water cooled alternator:
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This one goes from
the lower [passenger side] of the radiator to the Thermostat:
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This one goes from
the “drain valve”:
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And this one goes
from the radiator nipple over to the top of the expansion tank:
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The tool I made and
the template I traced in case anyone needs to make “the tool”:
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TOP
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Disclaimer: Not for
distribution, redistribution, sale, re-sale or otherwise without my
written consent. This information is presented with no liability or
guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.
Copyright © Magnum / Magnum1.com 2003-2008. |
|