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There is a chance that the oil pump
bolts can come loose on these cars, although it's been documented that
it is usually on 1998 and below, I didn't want to take any chances so
I checked them while doing an oil change.
Parts:
Tools:
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Ratchet
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A Torque
Wrench [I’m a stickler on this, and get a good one!]
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Rubber Mallet
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10mm, 13mm and
17mm sockets
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36mm socket OR
Oil filter strap wrench
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Long, 20 inch
or so, socket extension
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Oil drain pan
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Jack and Jacks
Stands or Ramps
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Small Boxes,
tins or the like to put all the bolts, nuts and caps in.
-
Couple empty
soup cans [these work great for cleaning nuts, bolts and caps]
Enjoy, and remember ALWAYS work safe and I assume NO
RESPONSIBILITY for your actions, mechanical abilities or
anything that may occur during the nature of the repairs.
Disclaimer: Not for
distribution, redistribution, sale, re-sale or otherwise without my
written consent. This information is presented with no liability or
guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.
Copyright © Magnum / Magnum1.com 2003-2008. |
First get the
car up on stands. I jack the whole front end up at once here:
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Then put it on
stands. Once you get the stands in position and the car lowered
onto them, give the car a push side
to side just to make sure it’s positioned properly on the jack stands
and to make sure it’s sturdy:
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Now remove the
belly pan [ie. lower cover]. This is attached by a bunch of Phillips
head screws:
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Now we’re moving
onto changing the oil, checking the oil pump bolts and changing the
lower oil pan gasket. First, remove the 17 mm oil pan drain plug:
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Then open up the
cap on the oil filter canister, 36mm socket.
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I prefer to use
a wrench with socket, but your miles may vary. Make sure you hold
onto the canister as you crack it loose or you’ll probably be
replacing the little rubber grommets that mount the canister to the
bracket:
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Now after ALL
the oil has drained out, unplug the oil level sensor and start
removing all these bolts. Obviously don’t pour new oil in until you
finish the oil pan gasket / oil pump bolt check: |
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You’ll find none
of these bolts to be very tight, so I worked my way around them to
crack them loose them took my drill with attachment to remove them.
After the bolts are removed the oil pan will not just fall off. I had
to take my rubber mallet and tap it lightly, but be careful because
when it breaks loose it can make a mess. I had a plastic garbage bag
under to catch any mess, but I was fortunate that I tapped with my
mallet while holding the pan and it just dropped in my hand:
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Here’s what it
looks like with the oil pan removed:
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NOTE: I did not
remove the oil pump bolts and then reinstall them, I just made sure
they were tight. Early model 740’s have been known for these to be
loose so I thought I would check mine, none of them were loose.
Remove this plastic cover, 13mm nuts if I’m remembering correctly and
slide the cover off:
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Here is the
plastic cover removed:
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Here I’m
checking 1 of 3 bolts. I torque'd these to roughly 14-16 ft. lbs.:
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Pull off the old
gasket, clean any residue that it left, then clean out the oil pan.
Put the new gasket on, align it properly and get ready to install. I
aligned the new gasket, put 2 bolts in just finger tight and made sure
the gasket was aligned properly while starting to secure the rest of
the bolts:
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Now that the pan
is reinstalled, put the drain plug with new crush ring in and torque
properly, put in the new oil filter with new O-Ring grab your 8 quarts
of oil.
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And start
pouring it in the oil fill.
TOP |
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Disclaimer: Not for
distribution, redistribution, sale, re-sale or otherwise without my
written consent. This information is presented with no liability or
guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.
Copyright © Magnum / Magnum1.com 2003-2008. |
|