Symptoms I encountered with the motor mounts where a slight pulsation at my foot and I could somewhat feel a shudder in the driver seat when parked and idling.  I would vote this as something people that live in 4 season climates and where all the shit goes on the road.

Let’s get started.  These really are easy to and I honestly think the value is there for replacing them.  If you’ve got 100K check yours out.  You can see the top of the driver side pretty good, so after you read this and look at the pics, grab your flashlight and go have a look at yours!

Parts:

• 22 11 1 092 823 - Left motor mount

• 22 11 1 092 824 - Right motor mount

• 07 12 9 900 812 - Top motor mount bolt x 2

• 07 12 9 904 862 - Bottom motor mount bolt x 4

Tools:

• Jack, Jack Stands or Ramps AND wheel chocks.

• Ratchet and/or Torque wrench.

• Long extension, at least 20” ratchet extension.

• 13mm and 16mm Sockets.

• Bottle Jack and some wood to raise the bottle jack for height.

Enjoy, and remember ALWAYS work safe and I assume NO RESPONSIBILITY for your actions, mechanical abilities or anything that may occur during the nature of the repairs.

Disclaimer: Not for distribution, redistribution, sale, re-sale or otherwise without my written consent.  This information is presented with no liability or guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.  Copyright © Magnum / Magnum1.com 2003-2008.

First get the car up in the air, here’s the jack point I use to lift the whole front end at once, there’s a little round puck on the cross member:

Now crawl under the front and twist the Philips head screws securing the belly pan, cover, shield or whatever “you” call it.

Top view of Passenger [right] side motor mount, using a long extension [20” or longer] and a 16mm socket to crack this bolt loose and remove it:

Now, [I say] loosen the clips and the small tube from the air box.  I say this because you are going to be jacking up the mount and this will put strain on the MAF and hose:

Remove the 2 13mm bolts:

Once the bolts are removed, put your bottle jack under the bracket and jack it up.  I used 2 - 2x6’s and a 4x6 stacked to get enough height for the bottle jack to lift the 2 or so inches you need to lift it.  Once the top motor mount bolt is free, push up and start working the mount out.  Old motor mount is out:

Now it should look like this, then put only the lower nuts back on and do not tighten yet.

Now let’s move to the driver [left] side.  Same thing, remove the 2 lower 13mm bolts:

Then get ready to jack up the engine.  I used the same 2 – 2x6’s and a 4x6 stacked to get enough height for the bottle jack to lift the 2 or so inches you need to lift it.  I found it best to thread these hoses with the tip of the bottle jack and jack it up like so, jack up the engine and swap out the motor mounts.  Here’s the new mount already in, now SLOWLY lower the engine making sure the top mount bolt is positioned at the same hole on the bracket it came out of and lower the engine down SLOWLY:

Now I went around to the 4 lower mounts bolts and torque’d them to 16 ft. lbs each, put the lower cover back on, then I took the car off the stands and torque’d the 2 top nuts to 30 ft. lbs. each.  I lowered the car before doing the top for levelness on the engine / motor mounts:

Cover on and here’s the bottom of mounts:

Next:

Here’s both of my old ones side by side:

Driver side close up, hmmm, no wonder I had a slight pulsation at my foot and I could somewhat feel a shudder in the driver seat when parked and idling.  Pretty shot, but wasn’t fully busted open yet!:

Passenger side, doesn’t look to bad but you can see the same thing was going to happen sometime by the slightly cracked ring:

TOP

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